WICEN Vic: Portable/Mobile Power Source
John and Bronwyn Morrissey
jbmorrissey at netspace.net.au
Sun Oct 5 05:48:37 CDT 2014
Hi Paul
Thanks for this info - most interesting.
Re 12V cable sizes - thanks to Collyn Rivers there is a simple formula for
estimating cable size.
Conductor size (square mm) = L x I x 0.0164 divided by Vd
Where
L = total circuit length (ie twice the cable length) from power source to
load
I = total current in amps
Vd = desired maximum voltage drop
For voltage drop, 0.2V is suggested but more might be tolerable - you need
to allow for lower voltage from the battery as it runs down, and still
maintain enough at the rig for it to operate properly. In my experience
some rigs can misbehave with a rapid increase in Tx distortion as supply
voltage drops. Note that the suggested voltage drop is less than the figure
usually quoted - 5% - which is used for mains wiring but is too high for
this application.
If you choose Vd = 0.164 V, the formula is even simpler:
Conductor size (square mm) = L x I x 0.1
Use the formula to calculate the cable size, and then use the nearest size
larger (or slightly smaller if more volt drop can be tolerated).
Beware of auto cable which is often labelled 4mm (or similar) - this is
diameter over insulation, not conductor area. Look in the fine print for
the cable area in mm2. Also beware of auto cable "current rating" - this is
the maximum the cable should carry without overheating, and is usually much
higher than can be tolerated for acceptable voltage drop.
Once you apply the formula, you will probably find you need heavier cables
than you thought! For example, the cable supplied with my FT-100D had a
measured 0.7V drop (!). Tolerable at 13.8V, but not when a nominal 12.6V
battery is getting a bit flat.
If anyone is using 12V solar, check the size of the cable supplied with the
panel. Suffice to say, the cable on mine is now much heavier..
Cheers, John VK3ZRX
_____
From: wicenvic [mailto:wicenvic-bounces at vic.wicen.org.au] On Behalf Of Paul
Whitaker
Sent: Sunday, 5 October 2014 2:26 PM
To: wicenvic at vic.wicen.org.au
Subject: WICEN Vic: Portable/Mobile Power Source
Hi all,
This appeared on the hflink Yahoo group.
I thought it was an interesting article, with a lot of information on
battery systems, and wire sizes etc.
Its a bit of an Ad. for West Mountain Radio, but interesting looking at the
gear & prices they have.
For your information.
Thanks
Paul Whitaker.
VK3DPW
Central Southern Metro Region CoOrdiantor.
From: "WD8ARZ wd8arz at comcast.net [hflink]" <hflink at yahoogroups.com>
24 / 7 Portable, Base and Mobile Battery System
The TS-480HX requires about 40 amps to transmit 200 watts. Here is a
battery system that can be used on the base, mobile and portable grab
and go emergencies. It includes protection of the vehicle battery from
being drained by the ham gear, and protects the ham gear from starting
transients.
A standard ham transceiver that transmits about 100 watts uses a power
supply rated at about 20 amps at 13.8 volts. Such a power supply will
easily power the charger for the system discussed blow.
The vehicle battery is used for charging on the road. Solar could be a
source as well.
Connect the transceiver right across the battery, fusing all radio cable
leads. This will protect your transmitting equipment finals from vehicle
starting transients. Check out the information about connecting
transmitters right to the battery as detailed by W1ZR.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/pdf/Emergency%20Power%20at%20W1ZR1.pdf
Choose a GEL / AGM battery when possible due to its venting / tip over /
discharge advantages over the standard liquid lead acid type. Put the
battery into a protective carry case.
Previous battery here was a GEL 70 a/Hr battery.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=M24SLDA
Replaced the 70 a/hr battery I used for 24/7 over the last six years
with a 12 Volt Group 31 Gel AGM Werker Battery WKG12-100DT 100 a/hr from
Batteriesplus.
http://www.batteriesplus.com/product_search/39603-12Volt-Group-31-Gel-AGM-We
rker-Battery-WKG12--100DT.aspx
Don't forget to compare specs, safety, and expected life cycle, and not
just price when choosing a battery that will be in your home, car, RV,
tent etc etc.
My battery case sets on the floor under the mid row of seats with the
seats folded over to hold it in place and block from view through the
windows of it and all the rest of the gear. Have also had all installed
in the extreme rear of the Trail Blazer for operation too. Can be
strapped or bolted to the floor for permanent installation.
A Power Gate PG40S is used to provide dual automatic switching of power
sources, charging of a several types of batteries, and is a charger,
power / charge alert system. Doesn't get hot.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm
Alternative option / cheaper. But compare and make your own choice.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=iso_pwr
The battery handles the load and keeps the amp draw off the PG-40S. The
20 amp power supply I used to use on a ham rig is feeding the PG-40S
full time on the base / portable, and it loafs along at just a few amps
most of the time. Some times five amps if the power was off for a little
while and the battery drawn down a bit. Even after using the battery
with out charging for eight hours or so, the charge rate hardly hit 8
amps. The same can be expected in a mobile setup.
You can isolate / protect your vehicle / portable battery and the
equipment attached to it, by using some sort of power isolator. The
standard RV diode or relay isolation options is NOT enough.
APO3 Timed Switch, kills the power to PG40S after the vehicle is shut
off to prevent draining / damaging the car battery after a preset period
of time. Have mine set to zero minutes as a delay is not needed when
operating off a ham battery inside the vehicle (not the one under the
hood used to start the vehicle). If you were not using a separate
battery from the vehicle, and was feeding the ham gear from the vehicle
battery, then set this to about 10 minutes delay. Keep in mind you will
have vehicle starting transients applied across the transmitter finals
before the APO3 times out. Get a bad starter and this can be damaging.
When the APO3 times out, it also keeps the power off the PG40S / Ham
radio and equipment during vehicle starting, protecting those systems
from starting transients.
http://www.aprsworld.com/apo3/
Rigrunner 4008 using Anderson Powerpole connectors for power
distribution to multiple equipment. Note that all outputs are
individually fused.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm
Powerpole Crimp Tool for making more cable to rig hook ups with spare
connectors.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm
Battery Fuse & Terminal Kit to protect vehicle cable feeding the
distribution system.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner/battfusetermkit.htm
On the base, I use a large UPS to feed and isolate the charging power
supply from commercial utility power spikes and variations.
My entire TS-480HX system has been configured to be a grab and go
communications system. TS-480HX, TM-D700A, TH-D7A, HiQ 5/160, 100 aHr
Battery / Case, and charging system. Have posted photo's and
text file in our reflector section.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wl2kemcomm/files/WD8ARZ%20WINMOR%20ALE%20Moble
%202012/
In the last six years this has been setup on my base running HFN Pilot
MARS-ALE hf station, in the mobile operating in Indiana, Michigan,
Kentucky, and Tennessee. Transferred to an RV Trailer in TN for portable
operation using an end fed 200' wire. Sky Command allows me to operate /
control the TS-480 and operate HF from the TH-D7A walkie talkie.
Investing in the components for a portable power supply to support all
those operating conditions was one of the best investments I have made
for the wonderful TS-480 series of radios. With a portable AC power
supply as commonly used for most 100 watt ham rigs for charging power,
and a power cord extension, I can charge from any AC source with in
range for portable and base station operation. AC burps do not take the
station off the air.
Several charging cables are made up to tap into most vehicle battery
systems through their cigarette// lighter outlets, RV trailer hitch
power connector, and of course common clamp on to every day vehicle
batteries. Charging current never exceeds 10 amps, and typically is
around 5 amps during normal operation.
For information about connectors, this site has a great file of
information that can be downloaded. Of course your user manual is a good
source too for the connector pin outs.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/rg4wpw/date.html
Personal vehicle is prewired with a removable cabling system to
interface to all gear main rig units and their control heads, mike
feeds, power connections and antenna cables. All cables use connectors,
quick disconnects or power poles for easy assembly / disassemble.
Antenna mount uses a right angle tube that slides in and out of the
trailer hitch and held in place / grounded using two heavy duty bolts
that tread into the right angled tube antenna mount. Antenna mount and
antenna mast uses a large and heavy duty Quick Disconnect. Capacity
hat and whips also use quick disconnects. Fast easy changes while on
the road, including partial / full removal of antenna / mount and
stored in vehicle. Antenna mount and HiQ5/160 antenna with out
capacity hat or whip installed, can enter / exit garage. Capacity
hat and whip is so easy to remove and put on as needed using quick
disconnects. Spare mike and equipment cables is not a bad idea.
73 from Bill - WD8ARZ
http://hflink.net/
Grab and Go 24/7 Base, Portable, and Mobile DC Power System
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