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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Hi Paul<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Thanks for this info – most interesting.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Re 12V cable sizes – thanks to
Collyn Rivers there is a simple formula for estimating cable size.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Conductor size (square mm) = L x I x
0.0164 divided by Vd<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Where<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>L = total <u>circuit</u><b><span
style='font-weight:bold'> </span></b>length (ie twice the cable length) from
power source to load<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I = total current in amps<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Vd = desired maximum voltage drop <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>For voltage drop, 0.2V is suggested but
more might be tolerable – you need to allow for lower voltage from the
battery as it runs down, and still maintain enough at the rig for it to operate
properly. In my experience some rigs can misbehave with a rapid
increase in Tx distortion as supply voltage drops. Note that the
suggested voltage drop is less than the figure usually quoted - 5% - which is
used for mains wiring but is too high for this application. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>If you choose Vd = 0.164 V, the formula is
even simpler:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Conductor size (square mm) = L x I x 0.1<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Use the formula to calculate the cable
size, and then use the nearest size larger (or slightly smaller if more volt
drop can be tolerated). <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Beware of auto cable which is often
labelled 4mm (or similar) – this is diameter over insulation, not conductor
area. Look in the fine print for the cable area in mm2. Also beware
of auto cable “current rating” – this is the maximum the
cable should carry without overheating, and is usually much higher than can be
tolerated for acceptable voltage drop. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Once you apply the formula, you will
probably find you need heavier cables than you thought! For example, the
cable supplied with my FT-100D had a measured 0.7V drop (!). Tolerable at
13.8V, but not when a nominal 12.6V battery is getting a bit flat. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>If anyone is using 12V solar, check the size
of the cable supplied with the panel. Suffice to say, the cable on mine
is now much heavier……<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Cheers, John VK3ZRX<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<div>
<div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><font size=3
face="Times New Roman"><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:12.0pt'>
<hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1>
</span></font></div>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span lang=EN-US
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font
size=2 face=Tahoma><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>
wicenvic [mailto:wicenvic-bounces@vic.wicen.org.au] <b><span style='font-weight:
bold'>On Behalf Of </span></b>Paul Whitaker<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Sunday, 5 October 2014 2:26
PM<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> wicenvic@vic.wicen.org.au<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> WICEN Vic:
Portable/Mobile Power Source</span></font><span lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Hi all,<br>
This appeared on the hflink Yahoo group.<br>
I thought it was an interesting article, with a lot of information on battery
systems, and wire sizes etc.<br>
Its a bit of an Ad. for West Mountain Radio, but interesting looking at the
gear & prices they have.<br>
For your information.<br>
<br>
Thanks<br>
Paul Whitaker.<br>
VK3DPW<br>
Central Southern Metro Region CoOrdiantor.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>From: "WD8ARZ wd8arz@comcast.net [hflink]"
<hflink@yahoogroups.com><br>
<br>
<br>
24 / 7 Portable, Base and Mobile <st1:place w:st="on">Battery</st1:place>
System<br>
<br>
The TS-480HX requires about 40 amps to transmit 200 watts. Here is a<br>
battery system that can be used on the base, mobile and portable grab<br>
and go emergencies. It includes protection of the vehicle battery from<br>
being drained by the ham gear, and protects the ham gear from starting<br>
transients.<br>
<br>
A standard ham transceiver that transmits about 100 watts uses a power<br>
supply rated at about 20 amps at 13.8 volts. Such a power supply will<br>
easily power the charger for the system discussed blow.<br>
<br>
The vehicle battery is used for charging on the road. Solar could be a<br>
source as well.<br>
<br>
Connect the transceiver right across the battery, fusing all radio cable<br>
leads. This will protect your transmitting equipment finals from vehicle<br>
starting transients. Check out the information about connecting<br>
transmitters right to the battery as detailed by W1ZR.<br>
<a
href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/pdf/Emergency%20Power%20at%20W1ZR1.pdf"
eudora=autourl>http://www.westmountainradio.com/pdf/Emergency%20Power%20at%20W1ZR1.pdf</a>
<br>
<br>
Choose a GEL / AGM battery when possible due to its venting / tip over /<br>
discharge advantages over the standard liquid lead acid type. Put the<br>
battery into a protective carry case.<br>
<br>
Previous battery here was a GEL 70 a/Hr battery.<br>
<a href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=M24SLDA"
eudora=autourl>http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=M24SLDA</a>
<br>
<br>
Replaced the 70 a/hr battery I used for 24/7 over the last six years<br>
with a 12 Volt Group 31 Gel AGM Werker <st1:place w:st="on">Battery</st1:place>
WKG12-100DT 100 a/hr from<br>
Batteriesplus.<br>
<a
href="http://www.batteriesplus.com/product_search/39603-12Volt-Group-31-Gel-AGM-Werker-Battery-WKG12--100DT.aspx"
eudora=autourl>http://www.batteriesplus.com/product_search/39603-12Volt-Group-31-Gel-AGM-Werker-Battery-WKG12--100DT.aspx</a>
<br>
<br>
Don't forget to compare specs, safety, and expected life cycle, and not<br>
just price when choosing a battery that will be in your home, car, RV,<br>
tent etc etc.<br>
<br>
My battery case sets on the floor under the mid row of seats with the<br>
seats folded over to hold it in place and block from view through the<br>
windows of it and all the rest of the gear. Have also had all installed<br>
in the extreme rear of the Trail Blazer for operation too. Can be<br>
strapped or bolted to the floor for permanent installation.<br>
<br>
A Power Gate PG40S is used to provide dual automatic switching of power<br>
sources, charging of a several types of batteries, and is a charger,<br>
power / charge alert system. Doesn't get hot.<br>
<a href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm" eudora=autourl>http://www.westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm</a><br>
<br>
Alternative option / cheaper. But compare and make your own choice.<br>
<a href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=iso_pwr"
eudora=autourl>http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=iso_pwr</a>
<br>
<br>
The battery handles the load and keeps the amp draw off the PG-40S. The<br>
20 amp power supply I used to use on a ham rig is feeding the PG-40S<br>
full time on the base / portable, and it loafs along at just a few amps<br>
most of the time. Some times five amps if the power was off for a little<br>
while and the battery drawn down a bit. Even after using the battery<br>
with out charging for eight hours or so, the charge rate hardly hit 8<br>
amps. The same can be expected in a mobile setup.<br>
<br>
You can isolate / protect your vehicle / portable battery and the<br>
equipment attached to it, by using some sort of power isolator. The<br>
standard RV diode or relay isolation options is NOT enough.<br>
<br>
APO3 Timed Switch, kills the power to PG40S after the vehicle is shut<br>
off to prevent draining / damaging the car battery after a preset period<br>
of time. Have mine set to zero minutes as a delay is not needed when<br>
operating off a ham battery inside the vehicle (not the one under the<br>
hood used to start the vehicle). If you were not using a separate<br>
battery from the vehicle, and was feeding the ham gear from the vehicle<br>
battery, then set this to about 10 minutes delay. Keep in mind you will<br>
have vehicle starting transients applied across the transmitter finals<br>
before the APO3 times out. Get a bad starter and this can be damaging.<br>
When the APO3 times out, it also keeps the power off the PG40S / Ham<br>
radio and equipment during vehicle starting, protecting those systems<br>
from starting transients.<br>
<a href="http://www.aprsworld.com/apo3/" eudora=autourl>http://www.aprsworld.com/apo3/</a><br>
<br>
Rigrunner 4008 using Anderson Powerpole connectors for power<br>
distribution to multiple equipment. Note that all outputs are<br>
individually fused.<br>
<a href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm" eudora=autourl>http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm</a><br>
<br>
Powerpole Crimp Tool for making more cable to rig hook ups with spare<br>
connectors.<br>
<a href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm" eudora=autourl>http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm</a><br>
<br>
Battery Fuse & Terminal Kit to protect vehicle cable feeding the<br>
distribution system.<br>
<a href="http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner/battfusetermkit.htm"
eudora=autourl>http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner/battfusetermkit.htm</a><br>
<br>
On the base, I use a large UPS to feed and isolate the charging power<br>
supply from commercial utility power spikes and variations.<br>
<br>
My entire TS-480HX system has been configured to be a grab and go<br>
communications system. TS-480HX, TM-D700A, TH-D7A, HiQ 5/160, 100 aHr<br>
<st1:place w:st="on">Battery</st1:place> / Case, and charging system. Have
posted photo's and<br>
text file in our reflector section.<br>
<a
href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wl2kemcomm/files/WD8ARZ%20WINMOR%20ALE%20Moble%202012/"
eudora=autourl>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wl2kemcomm/files/WD8ARZ%20WINMOR%20ALE%20Moble%202012/</a>
<br>
<br>
In the last six years this has been setup on my base running HFN Pilot<br>
MARS-ALE hf station, in the mobile operating in <st1:State w:st="on">Indiana</st1:State>,
<st1:State w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Michigan</st1:place></st1:State>,<br>
<st1:State w:st="on">Kentucky</st1:State>, and <st1:State w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">Tennessee</st1:place></st1:State>. Transferred to an RV Trailer in
TN for portable<br>
operation using an end fed 200' wire. Sky Command allows me to operate /<br>
control the TS-480 and operate HF from the TH-D7A walkie talkie.<br>
<br>
Investing in the components for a portable power supply to support all<br>
those operating conditions was one of the best investments I have made<br>
for the wonderful TS-480 series of radios. With a portable AC power<br>
supply as commonly used for most 100 watt ham rigs for charging power,<br>
and a power cord extension, I can charge from any AC source with in<br>
range for portable and base station operation. AC burps do not take the<br>
station off the air.<br>
<br>
Several charging cables are made up to tap into most vehicle battery<br>
systems through their cigarette// lighter outlets, RV trailer hitch<br>
power connector, and of course common clamp on to every day vehicle<br>
batteries. Charging current never exceeds 10 amps, and typically is<br>
around 5 amps during normal operation.<br>
<br>
For information about connectors, this site has a great file of<br>
information that can be downloaded. Of course your user manual is a good<br>
source too for the connector pin outs.<br>
<a href="http://homepage.ntlworld.com/rg4wpw/date.html" eudora=autourl>http://homepage.ntlworld.com/rg4wpw/date.html</a><br>
<br>
Personal vehicle is prewired with a removable cabling system to<br>
interface to all gear main rig units and their control heads, mike<br>
feeds, power connections and antenna cables. All cables use connectors,<br>
quick disconnects or power poles for easy assembly / disassemble.<br>
Antenna mount uses a right angle tube that slides in and out of the<br>
trailer hitch and held in place / grounded using two heavy duty bolts<br>
that tread into the right angled tube antenna mount. Antenna mount and<br>
antenna mast uses a large and heavy duty Quick Disconnect. Capacity<br>
hat and whips also use quick disconnects. Fast easy changes while on<br>
the road, including partial / full removal of antenna / mount and<br>
stored in vehicle. Antenna mount and HiQ5/160 antenna with out<br>
capacity hat or whip installed, can enter / exit garage. Capacity<br>
hat and whip is so easy to remove and put on as needed using quick<br>
disconnects. Spare mike and equipment cables is not a bad idea.<br>
<br>
73 from Bill - WD8ARZ<br>
<a href="http://hflink.net/" eudora=autourl>http://hflink.net/</a><br>
Grab and Go 24/7 Base, Portable, and <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Mobile</st1:City>
<st1:State w:st="on">DC</st1:State></st1:place> Power System<br>
<br>
__._,_.___<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><font size=3
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>
<hr size=2 width="100%" align=center>
</span></font></div>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Posted by: WD8ARZ <wd8arz@comcast.net> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><font size=3
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>
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</span></font></div>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
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